Saturday, January 22, 2011

Day 2: Jaca to Arres

This section of the camino is 25 KM. This section is almost all downhill, except for a steep climb just before Arres.

This route first passes by the Ermita de la Victoria, which celebrates Christian victories over Muslims in 732 and 778. The present building was built in 1816, after the previous church was destroyed during the Napoleonic wars.

The route then goes by a scenic viewpoint over la Canal de Berdun, a kind of valley with many historic Romanesque churches.

Next comes a very old venta, or lodging, Venta de Esculabolsas. Near here is a road that goes to Santa Cruz de la Seros and San Juan de la Pena. Both of these places are worth the detour, which might mean staying t
he night in Santa Cicilia de Jaca, instead of going on to Arres.

Santa Cicilia de Jaca, where there is an albergue for pilgrims. Bakeries in this town make a special kind of country-style bread called "pan de hogaza," which is round, and in this town, produces very few crumbs when cut. Mmmmmmm.

Walking some more, we come to a stone bridge that crosses the Aragon river to Puente de la Reina de Jaca. There has been a bridge in this location for a long time, perhaps since Roman times, since the Roman highway between Zaragoza and Bearn crossed the Aragon river here.
The bridge was rebuilt several times during the middle ages. The bridge is identified with the Aragonese royal family, but no one knows which queen is associate with the bridge, although there are several candidates. The bridge led to a town called Astorito, and there were inns on both sides of the bridge for pilgrims and other travelers. The village of Astorito disappeared and it's exact location is not known. The present town was built in the 20th century and took the name Puente de la Reina de Jaca, which distinguishes it from other bridges with the same name, such as one near where the Camino Aragones joins the Camino Frances.

Finally, there is the uphill walk to Arres.

Here is a picture of the Hospital de Peregrinos in Arres. It is run by the city, and previously was the house where teachers lived. For that reason, I am anxious to see this particular Hospital.

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